I wouldn"t take another one if someone gave it to me. Afgter 15 years, three engines, loose tracks and annual belt changes, the novelty wore off. First seen in Popular Mechanics and on the Johnny Carson show. He traded it for an old Farmall 300 even up. Track linkages became loose from wear but I fixed that with a self-designed spring track tensioner that the manufacturer shouldhave figured out to begin with. Drive system will remind you of a miniture machine shop. Not easy to replace belts in below freezing wx. I just resigned myself to replacing them once per year to avoid breakdowns at inconvenient times. Last engine cost more that the entire dozer cost originally. Tecumseh engine self destructed at about 300 hours. Put it together in about 4 hours and used it for about 15 years. I bought a new Srtuck Mini-Dozer with front blade for $495 in 1970. Does the SH44 Speed Hitch accept mini skid steer attachments or can it use. A variety of backhoe sizes are offered as well as a 6-way dozer blade with a standard 540 RPM PTO using a 1 3/8 diameter, six splined shaft, as well as other category 1 three point. I'll update more as I continue with the painting and assembly.Re: struck mini dozer in reply to francis, 10-28-2010 18:19:28 MD196K THE HOBBYIST D-I-Y KIT RT1150 The Homeowner MH4900 The. As an idea of scale, this dropcloths cover an 6' x 12' area, roughly. I should have made it bigger, but could only dedicate one stall of my garage for this project. Just various brackets and doodads.Īn overall shot showing the painting area. Here are the small parts hanging to be painted. The axles pass through the holes/slots and there is a bolt with a rubber bumper that you use to tension the track. The square tube things in the middle right are the track tensioners. In the upper left are the body panels (right and left side). I put on too much paint and as it dried, I got some bumps/drips. Since I am rolling the paint on, I took small squares of plywood and drove a 2" drywall screw through them to hold the painted parts up off the floor. Here's some of the parts, roughly laid out for painting. At completion, this thing will weigh 850+ lbs with the attachments on and no operator. The other large tooth sprockets connect to the track. The gear with the smaller teeth is the one that attaches to the belt drive transmission through a thick chain. The one to the left is the drive, the other is the "idler", I guess you would call it. Here's one half of the rollers for the track. Here's a close-up of one of the axle shafts. My goal is to paint and assemble one sections' worth of parts at a time. A blade and bucket and a small rear hitch. I have some attachments that I need to paint at the end too. Roughly Body / Drivetrain / Engine / Wiring / Finish Work. The manual is divided up into 5 or 6 sections. Here's a brief summary of where I am at so far (all pics taken before primer): Whether your plowing snow, making trails or digging a foundation for the new house, make sure to capture those moments and share them with us. I was going to go with a red, but I have heard that red alkyd enamals generally fade fast and I didn't want any pink machinery at my place. I chose "Ford" as my paint scheme, dark blue on the stuff that doesn't move and light gray on the stuff that does move. I plan on one coat of primer and two coats of color. The image below shows me demonstrating how to confirm that alignment. In this part, you will learn how to complete the assembly of the drive, a task that was started in Part 3A of these series.Before you begin, make sure that the large pulleys installed earlier line up with the smaller pulleys as much as possible. Then, busted out the primer and got to it. This is Part 3B of assembling the MINI-DOZER MD196K. Since the steel was sitting on my garage floor for 4 months due to a lack of proper planning, the first step was to sand off any rust spots, then I wiped/washed it all down with acetone and rags. I initially tried using a foam brush for this part, that doesn't work well. I am rolling it on the flat areas and plan on using a spray can to do the corners and rounded items where a roller doesn't cut it. Part of me has trouble with this approach, but at the end of the day, the paint is there for rust protection. I am shooting for a "10 foot" paint job, meaning if it looks OK from 10 ft, that's good enough for me. I chose to do the paint myself, using some tractor/implement paint from our local farm store (Van Sickle is the ems OK). I started this thread ( ) a while back and, as promised, I have come back to give some further details.
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